See how Earth Fare's closure impacts local farmers and food producers

Winter can be unkind to farmers and food producers.

And for some who sold their wares through Earth Fare, the natural foods store that announced on Feb. 3 plans to close all 50 locations, it's been particularly problematic.

Imladris Farm jam owner Walter Harrill planned to ride out with little panic the weird weather plaguing some growers of early blooming plants.

Similarly, Harrill also planned to go with the flow after Earth Fare shutters, pursuing other markets in cities where the store's closure leaves gaps in his distribution circle. Harrill's products are in about 15 Earth Fare stores.

"We've worked hard to make sure we have wide distribution, but my feeling is that those Earth Fare customers aren't suddenly going to quit buying local, healthy sustainable products," he said. 

But Harrill said Earth Fare was instrumental to his company's growth. His success with sales there helped him earn credibility he leveraged to get into larger natural chains like Whole Foods. 

Earth Fare represents a rung in the ladder of success for many small food producers, he said. "They no longer have that particular tool as an avenue toward growth."

Feeling the pinch

Like Harrill, Lusty Monk mustard owner Kelly Davis lamented the loss for local vendors. Earth Fare represented about 7% of her annual sales, so she'd also feel the pinch. 

But Davis also felt nostalgic about a grocer that once acted as an integral community gathering place, before Asheville was the place it is today. 

The first health food store in North Carolina, Earth Fare opened as "Dinner For the Earth" in 1975, with hand-hewn shelves filled with a myriad of organic and natural products.

Related:

• Hopey & Co. liquidating soon-to-close Sweeten Creek grocery store
• Opening day details for newly expanded East Asheville Aldi

It remained locally owned until 2007, when founder Roger Derrough and his business associates sold what was then a 13-store chain to a Boston company that expanded the store to 10 states.

"We all went back in the day, and you knew every cashier," Davis said. "They were one of the first stores that ever bought my mustard. They were so good to us."

Davis used to self-deliver her mustard to Earth Fare. "Then they let me in the warehouse, and I grew with them as they went."

Local stores including the Appalachian Vintner, Trout Lily and the French Broad Food Co-Op remain sources for her famously strong mustard, and Davis plans to target more specialty markets throughout the region and in places north.

"It's time to rejigger things. The face keeps changing, the market keeps switching and you just have to ride the surfboard," Davis said.

A changing food industry

Smithson Mills, the executive director of Blue Ridge Food Ventures, said change is just part of the food industry. 

"The winds of change are always blowing in different directions, and you have to be nimble and react quickly to new events on the ground."

He called the closure of Earth Fare a "continuation of the rapid pace of change of the whole industry."

Local business in spotlight:3 Asheville brands launch food factories, pumping millions into economy

Asheville made:8 local food obsessions in my kitchen right now

The toeholds for food producers trying to make it in an already crowded market continue to disappear, with ever-fewer markets occupying the space between individual, independent stores and larger distribution channels. 

"I think the avenues of diversification are getting very narrow now," he said. "In some respect, I'm afraid we're regressing to where you only have one or two options available to get into a business level that's sustainable. I'm a little worried that the avenues to ramping your business up are getting constricted."

Ingles Markets is one option, according to the southeastern grocery chain's CFO Ron Freeman, who said Ingles has for more than 50 years worked with local farmers and food makers.

"Supporting local products is important to us and to our customers, so we identify these items with shelf tags and overhead signage," he said. 

Ingles also highlights local producers in various media outlets and through its in-store Taste of Local events. 

Renewed focus on community

Meg Chamberlain, who owns Fermenti, a Marshall-based handcrafted fermented foods company, was about to level up with Earth Fare.

"I was in the middle of being added to their lineup and supposed to be getting an email about the first delivery," she said.

But the unpleasant surprise of learning that would never happen doesn't spell disaster for Chamberlain, who said her biggest problem is keeping up with demand.

Earth Fare closing

• Organic and natural foods chain Earth Fare to close all of its stores
• Asheville-based natural grocery store files for Chapter 11 bankruptcy

Now, she plans to redirect her energy into encouraging her customers and peers to shop as locally as possible. And as a true champion of local food, she doesn't care to be on the shelves at the Amazon-owned Whole Foods, she said.

As Earth Fare grows, some workers feeling 'squeezed'

"Maybe that makes me naive as a business owner," she admitted. But remaining true to what she believes in feels more important, she said. 

That's why you can find her fermented fare on the shelves of shops like the French Broad Food Co-Op and Hopey & Co., and available for delivery through Mother Earth Foods.

Inside dish:New restaurants to try; Mother Earth Food adds Co-op delivery

AVL's best and oddest donuts:Bacon, hot sauce, probiotics

She'd like to see Earth Fare's customers devote their energy to those local stores, and tailgate markets too. "If one more percent of our population would support more farmers markets, we would all sell out," she said. 

She hopes someone feels moved to fill the space in the Asheville community Earth Fare's original vision once occupied, she said. "I'm very much in support of that original vision, and look forward to seeing something hold that space."

___

Mackensy Lunsford is an award-winning staff writer for the Asheville Citizen Times, former professional line cook and one-time restaurant owner.

Reach me:mlunsford@citizentimes.com.

Read more: Subscribe to the Citizen Times here. Subscribe to my newsletter here.